830 point solderless breadboard with detachable red and blue power rails, rows a to j and 63 numbered columns

Solderless Breadboard 830 Tie Point MB-102 - Arduino, ESP32 & Raspberry Pi

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830 point solderless breadboard with detachable red and blue power rails, rows a to j and 63 numbered columns
  • 830 point solderless breadboard with detachable red and blue power rails, rows a to j and 63 numbered columns
  • Overhead view of the 830 point breadboard showing 63 numbered columns, rows a to e and f to j, and both power rails
  • 830 point breadboard wired with a buzzer, coloured LEDs, a tactile push button, a screw terminal block and jumper wires (components not included)
  • 830 point breadboard dimensions: 165mm long, 54mm wide, 9mm high
  • Underside of the 830 point breadboard with the backing paper peeled back to show the self-adhesive pad
Solderless Breadboard 830 Tie Point MB-102 - Arduino, ESP32 & Raspberry Pi
SKU: BB-830-1PK

Solderless Breadboard 830 Tie Point MB-102 - Arduino, ESP32 & Raspberry Pi

$5.99 NZD
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The full size MB-102 solderless breadboard, 830 tie points across 63 columns. Room to lay several modules or sensors side by side and still have space to wire between them, which is where a 400 point board runs out. Tin-plated phosphor bronze clips hold component leads and jumper wire firmly, and the power rails run the full length of both sides.


  • 830 tie points: 630 terminal strip + 200 power rail
  • 63 numbered columns, rows labelled A to J
  • Tin-plated phosphor bronze contact strips
  • 2.54mm pitch, fits DIP ICs and dev board headers
  • Takes 20 to 29 AWG solid wire and component leads
  • Power rails on both sides unclip from the main board
  • Interlocking tabs so you can join boards together
  • Self-adhesive backing for bench or enclosure mounting

Specifications


TypeMB-102 solderless breadboard, 830 point
Layout830 tie points: 630 in the terminal strip (63 columns) plus 2 distribution strips of 100
Row and column markingRows A to E and F to J, columns numbered 1 to 63
Tie point pitch2.54mm (0.1 inch)
Accepted wire20 to 29 AWG solid core, plus standard component leads
Contact materialTin-plated phosphor bronze
Body materialABS plastic, white
Contact rating300V, 3 to 5A (supplier rating, see note below)
Dimensions165 x 54 x 9mm (supplier figure)
Power railsDetachable on both sides
MountingSelf-adhesive backing, peel and stick
Smaller sizeA 400 point board is listed separately

Quick start guide


One page quick start guide PDF

What's in the box


1x
830 point solderless breadboard

Single board with both power rails fitted. Adhesive backing pre-applied on the underside. Components and jumper wires are not included.

Great for


Multi module builds with sensors and breakouts side by side
Arduino and ESP32 prototyping
Circuits with several DIP ICs such as 555 timers and logic gates
Robotics and motor driver wiring
Proving a circuit before you commit it to a PCB
School, university and workshop benches

Getting started

  1. Orient the board

    Rows are labelled A to E and F to J either side of the centre gap. Columns number across the board from 1 to 63.

  2. Understand the connections

    All five holes in a row (A to E, or F to J) are joined together. The centre gap separates the two halves, which is what lets a DIP IC straddle it with each side of pins on its own set of rows.

  3. Use the power rails

    The red (+) and blue (-) rails on each side run the full length of the board. Feed your supply in here, then use short jumpers to bring power across to your components.

  4. Insert components and wires

    Push leads straight in until they seat firmly. Pull straight back out to remove them. Wiggling a lead sideways can bend fine component pins.

  5. Split or join boards as needed

    The side power rails unclip if you want a narrower board or a spare rail on its own, and the interlocking tabs let you slide two boards together into one wider work surface.

Note: the 300V / 3 to 5A figure is the supplier's contact rating. In practice a breadboard is a low-voltage bench tool: the strips are exposed and the contact paths are long, so keep it to typical 3.3V and 5V logic and small signal work rather than mains or high-current wiring. Keep jumper wires short as well, since long loops pick up noise and can upset fast digital signals.
Related guide Breadboard Basics: Build Your First Circuit (No Soldering)Brand new to electronics? A breadboard lets you build circuits in seconds with no soldering. Learn how it works and light your first LED.

Frequently Asked Questions

Answers to the questions buyers ask most.

Do I need the 830 point, or would the 400 point do?
Take the 830 when you want several modules or sensors laid out side by side with room to wire between them, or when a circuit uses more than one DIP IC. The 400 point board is listed separately and suits a single module, a compact build or a learning exercise. If this is your first board and you are not sure, take the 830.
Will standard DIP ICs fit?
Yes. 555 timers, 74HC logic, op-amps and ATmega chips all straddle the centre gap with each row of pins landing in its own half of the board. The 2.54mm pitch matches through-hole DIP parts exactly.
Can I take the power rails off?
Yes. The red and blue distribution strips down each side unclip from the main terminal strip, so you can run a narrower board in a tight enclosure or use a spare rail on its own.
Can I join two boards together?
Yes. There are interlocking tabs along the edges, so boards slide together into one wider work surface. Useful for long builds or when you want extra power rail space.
Will an Arduino or ESP32 plug straight in?
Any board on standard 2.54mm headers will seat in the strips. The wide 38-pin ESP32 dev boards are an exception worth knowing about: they cover almost the full width of the board and leave you only one free row per pin, so most people wire those off the board with jumpers instead.
What wire should I use with it?
Solid core wire between 20 and 29 AWG, which is what pre-made jumper wire is. Stranded wire frays as you push it in and will not seat properly in the clips.

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I'm Lukas, an engineering student and maker based in Te Awamutu. NZN grew out of a CNC build that dragged on for months because every missing cable, bolt or electronic part meant another overseas order. I started the shop so Kiwi makers can spend more time building and less time waiting for the next parcel.

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