ESP32-H2 SuperMini development board with two loose 2.54mm male header strips

ESP32-H2 SuperMini Dev Board - Zigbee, Thread & Matter, BLE 5.3, LiPo Charger

Unsoldered
$10.59 NZD
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SKU: ESP32-H2-MINI-1PK

ESP32-H2 SuperMini Dev Board - Zigbee, Thread & Matter, BLE 5.3, LiPo Charger

$10.59 NZD
Headers
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An ESP32 dev board is a small programmable computer with wireless built in, which you program from a PC over USB to read sensors and switch things. The ESP32-H2 SuperMini is a low-power board for Thread, Zigbee and Matter smart-home devices, on a 23 x 18mm board with USB-C. It has no WiFi. It pairs an 802.15.4 radio with Bluetooth 5.3 LE, so it joins a smart-home mesh as a battery-friendly end device and reaches your network through a border router or hub.

Use it for Matter-over-Thread or Zigbee sensors, switches and plugs, Home Assistant and ESPHome nodes, or Bluetooth LE beacons. It needs a Thread border router or Zigbee coordinator to talk to, and if you want one board to be that router, the ESP32-C6 SuperMini has WiFi as well. A single lithium cell solders to the B+ and B- pads underneath and charges from USB-C, so a battery sensor needs no separate charger board. The pins work at 3.3V, so a 5V sensor output needs a level shifter or a voltage divider before it reaches a GPIO. Choose Unsoldered to fit the supplied header strips yourself or wire straight to the edge pads, or choose Pre-soldered to have the headers fitted for you.

Specifications

ChipESP32-H2FH4S, 32-bit RISC-V single core, up to 96MHz
802.15.4Thread 1.4, Zigbee 3.0, Matter
BluetoothBluetooth 5.3 LE, Mesh, Long Range
WiFiNone (802.15.4 and Bluetooth only)
USBUSB-C, native USB Serial/JTAG, no USB-serial chip or driver
Memory4MB flash, 320KB SRAM, 128KB ROM
Logic voltage3.3V, not 5V tolerant
Power inUSB-C, 4.5 to 5.5V on the 5V pad, regulated 3.3V on 3V3, or a cell
3V3 outputUp to 200mA for your own parts
BatteryOne lithium cell, 3.0 to 4.2V, on B+ / B- pads underneath; charges from USB-C
GPIOAll 19: 18 edge pads (9 per side, including 5V, GND and 3V3) plus 4 inner holes
Pins with a jobGPIO26 and 27 carry USB; GPIO8 drives the RGB LED and GPIO9 is BOOT
Analog in12-bit, 5 channels on GPIO1 to GPIO5
Onboard LEDsBlue user LED, WS2812 RGB on GPIO8, charge status
ButtonsBOOT (GPIO9) and RESET
AntennaOnboard ceramic chip antenna
Deep sleep7uA at chip level
Size23 x 18mm, 2.54mm pin pitch

Datasheets

What's in the box

1×
ESP32-H2 SuperMini board

Comes with the headers loose or fitted, depending on the option you choose.

2×
2.54mm male header strips

Unsoldered: supplied loose, ten pins each against nine pads per side, so snap one pin off or let it hang over. Solder them straight, right-angle or low-profile to suit your build, or leave them off and reflow the board by its castellated edges. Pre-soldered: fitted along both long edges.

Wiring & getting started

  1. Find the pins

    The board has 18 edge pads. On the top face, the 15 and BAT marks label the LEDs beside them, not pads, and the inner hole marked 28 is GPIO26. The datasheet has the full pin map. Leave the inner holes for GPIO26 and 27 free, because using them as ordinary pins costs you the USB connection.

  2. Add a battery (optional)

    Solder one protected LiPo cell to the round pads underneath, positive to B+ and negative to B-. It charges whenever USB-C is plugged in and the charge LED shows it charging. Don't leave it charging unattended.

  3. Plug in with a USB-C data cable

    A charge-only cable lights the board but no port ever appears, so swap the cable before anything else.

  4. Install the board package

    In the free Arduino IDE, open Tools > Board > Boards Manager, search esp32 and install the esp32 board package by Espressif, version 3.0 or later. Earlier versions have no H2 support, so the board is missing from the list.

  5. Select the board

    Choose Tools > Board > ESP32H2 Dev Module, set USB CDC On Boot to Enabled so the Serial Monitor shows output, then pick the port under Tools > Port. PlatformIO, ESP-IDF and ESPHome work too.

  6. Upload a test and check it works

    Open File > Examples > ESP32 > ChipID > GetChipID and upload it. Open the Serial Monitor at 115200 baud and a line naming the ESP32-H2 and its chip ID appears every few seconds. If the Serial Monitor stays blank, check USB CDC On Boot is Enabled and upload again. If no port appears, hold BOOT, tap RESET, release BOOT, then upload again.

Note: Power the board from one source at a time: never feed the 5V pad while USB-C is plugged in. Check the cell's polarity before you solder it, because a cell connected backwards to B+ and B- can damage the charger.

Frequently Asked Questions

Answers to the questions buyers ask most.

Does the ESP32-H2 have WiFi?
No, and that is the point of the chip. The H2 is an 802.15.4 and Bluetooth LE part with no WiFi radio at all, which is what lets it run so much colder on power than a WiFi board. It joins a Thread or Zigbee mesh through a border router or coordinator. If you need WiFi as well as 802.15.4, choose the ESP32-C6 instead.
What do I need to actually use Thread, Zigbee or Matter?
A coordinator or border router on your network. For Zigbee that is a coordinator stick or a hub. For Thread and Matter that is a border router, which these days is often something you already own: an Apple TV, a HomePod, a Nest Hub, a SkyConnect dongle, or an ESP32-C6 running Espressif's border-router firmware. Plan for one before you buy several of these boards.
Can it run from a battery?
Yes. There are two round solder pads marked B+ and B- on the underside, beneath the USB-C connector, feeding an onboard single-cell lithium charger. Solder a 3.7V Li-ion or LiPo cell to them and it charges whenever USB-C is connected, with an LED showing charge state. Plan for a charge current of a few hundred milliamps, use a protected cell and do not leave a charging board unattended.
How many pins does it actually have?
Eighteen castellated pads, nine per side, plus four inner through-holes and the two battery pads underneath. Between them the castellated pads and inner holes carry every one of the 19 GPIO the ESP32-H2 has, which is unusual for a board this small. Watch out when counting from the photos: the marks reading 15 and BAT sit next to LEDs rather than pads, so it looks like twenty at a glance.
The board is marked 15 next to the small LED, and 28 on an inner hole. What are those?
Printing errors on the board. The ESP32-H2 has no GPIO15 and no GPIO28: the chip exposes GPIO0 to 5, 8 to 14 and 22 to 27. The 15 mark labels the blue LED rather than a pin, and the inner hole marked 28 is really GPIO26 (USB D-). Our datasheet has the corrected pin map.
Are the header pins fitted?
Only on the Pre-soldered option, which arrives with headers fitted along both long edges. The Unsoldered option has two 2.54mm male header strips loose in the bag. They carry ten positions each against nine pads per rail, so snap the spare pin off or let it overhang. You can also skip them entirely and reflow the board by its castellated edges.
Does it need a driver?
No. The chip drives USB itself and shows up as a native USB Serial/JTAG device, so Windows, macOS and Linux all see it with the driver already in the operating system. There is no CH340 or CP2102 on this board. Use a USB-C data cable, not a charge-only one.
Which board do I select in the Arduino IDE?
Install the Espressif esp32 board package version 3.0 or later, then choose ESP32H2 Dev Module and set USB CDC On Boot to Enabled. On an older 2.x core the H2 does not appear in the Tools menu at all, which is the most common reason people think the board is faulty.
How does it compare to the ESP32-C6 and the C3 SuperMini?
The C3 SuperMini is the cheap WiFi and Bluetooth workhorse with no 802.15.4 at all. The C6 adds WiFi 6 on top of 802.15.4, so it can be a border router itself. The H2 drops WiFi entirely to be the lowest-power, radio-focused option, which makes it the one to pick for battery Thread or Zigbee end devices sitting behind a hub.
How do I put it into download mode?
Hold BOOT, tap RESET, release RESET, then release BOOT. On the H2 the boot pin is GPIO9, not GPIO0 as on the S3, so wiring diagrams carried over from S3 or classic ESP32 boards will pull the wrong pin.

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