KW11-3Z roller lever micro limit switch, numbered face with 5A 125/250VAC marking and tabs 1, 3, 2

KW11-3Z Micro Limit Switch with Roller Lever - 3-Pin SPDT 5A 250VAC

$1.85 NZD
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SKU: SW-KW11-3Z-3PIN-RL

KW11-3Z Micro Limit Switch with Roller Lever - 3-Pin SPDT 5A 250VAC

$1.85 NZD
Availability:
Order before 7:30am for same-day dispatch Dispatch 7 days a week, excluding public holidays

NZ Post: 1-2 days urban · 2-4 days rural

Shipping from $5.99 urban / $9.99 rural, or free pick-up in Te Awamutu.

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A micro limit switch is a small switch that clicks over when something presses its lever, so a controller knows a moving part has reached a set point. This KW11-3Z has a steel lever with a red roller wheel on the end, so a carriage, cam or sliding part rolls onto it instead of scraping across it. It has three pins, common, normally open and normally closed, so you can wire it to read either pressed or released.

Use it as an endstop on a 3D printer or CNC axis, a home switch in an Arduino or ESP32 stepper project, or to sense when a lid, door or drawer closes. It connects straight to 3.3V and 5V board inputs with no extra parts, and mounts with two M2 screws. Connect it with female spade connectors pushed onto the tabs, or solder the wires straight on, hooking each one through the hole in its tab. The same switch also comes as the SC7301 with a plain lever, the KW11-3Z with no lever and a 2-pin normally open lever switch.

Specifications

ActionMomentary SPDT (COM, NO and NC)
Rating marked5A 125/250VAC, T85
Pinout1 = COM, 3 = NO, 2 = NC
Tab spacing8.8mm (1 to 3), 7.3mm (3 to 2)
ActuatorSteel lever with roller, roller centre 14.5mm from hole 1
Mounting2 x 2.35mm holes, 9.5mm apart, suit M2 screws
Terminals3 solder tabs with wire holes
Body size19.8 x 10.2 x 6.4mm
In the box1 switch, no screws or wires

Datasheets

Wiring & getting started

  1. Find the pins

    Hold the switch with the numbered face towards you and the lever pivot on the left. The tabs are 1 (COM) at the pivot end, 3 (NO) in the middle and 2 (NC) at the far end. The back face is marked C, NO and NC to match.

  2. Wire it

    For an endstop, wire COM to GND and NC to the endstop signal pin where your board allows it. A broken or unplugged wire then reads as pressed, so the axis stops instead of running into the frame. On an Arduino or ESP32, wire COM to GND and NO to an input pin. No resistor is needed, because the board has one built in that the code switches on (INPUT_PULLUP in Arduino).

  3. Mount it so the part rolls on

    Fix it with two M2 screws so the moving part rolls onto the wheel along the lever, not straight into the end of it. Leave a little travel past the click so the part never jams against the body.

  4. Check it works

    Before anything moves, press the roller by hand. You should hear a click, and on a Marlin printer the M119 command should show that endstop change from open to TRIGGERED. On an Arduino with NO wired, the input reads LOW while the roller is pressed and HIGH when it is released. If it reads the wrong way round, move the signal wire to the other outer tab.

Note: For mains wiring, fit the switch inside an enclosure and have a licensed electrician do the work.

Frequently Asked Questions

Answers to the questions buyers ask most.

Roller, lever or no lever: which one do I need?
Take this roller version when the moving part slides or rolls along the actuator, such as a carriage, cam or sliding door, because the wheel rolls instead of scraping. Choose the SC7301 lever version when something sweeps past and pushes an arm, and the KW11-3Z no-lever version when the part presses straight onto the plunger in a tight space.
How do I connect it to my 3D printer board's endstop plug?
Most printer boards have a 3-pin endstop plug marked S (or SIG), GND and V+. Use only S and GND: COM to GND and NC to S. Leave V+ unconnected, because the switch needs no power, and a switch wired between V+ and GND shorts the board's supply when it closes.
Why does my endstop show triggered all the time?
Usually the signal wire is on NC while the firmware expects NO, or the other way round. Move the wire to the other outer tab, or invert that endstop in your firmware settings. If it still shows triggered, look for a broken or unplugged wire, which reads as triggered when the switch is wired to NC.

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I'm Lukas, an engineering student and maker based in Te Awamutu. NZN grew out of a CNC build that dragged on for months because every missing cable, bolt or electronic part meant another overseas order. I started the shop so Kiwi makers can spend more time building and less time waiting for the next parcel.

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