SC7301 lever micro limit switch, front three-quarter view with the steel lever on its bracket, red plunger and three solder tabs

SC7301 Micro Limit Switch with Lever - 3-Pin SPDT 5A 250VAC

$1.75 NZD
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SKU: SW-KW11-3Z-3PIN-LV

SC7301 Micro Limit Switch with Lever - 3-Pin SPDT 5A 250VAC

$1.75 NZD
Availability:
Order before 7:30am for same-day dispatch Dispatch 7 days a week, excluding public holidays

NZ Post: 1-2 days urban · 2-4 days rural

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A micro limit switch is a small switch that clicks over when something presses it, so a controller knows a moving part has reached a set point. The SC7301 has a sprung straight steel lever resting on a red plunger, which gives a carriage, cam or door a longer target to push than the bare plunger, so it does not have to line up exactly. It has three pins, common, normally open and normally closed, so you can wire it to read either pressed or released.

Use it as an X, Y or Z endstop on a 3D printer, a travel limit on a CNC router or laser, a home switch in an Arduino or ESP32 stepper project, or to sense a lid, door or drawer closing. It connects straight to 3.3V and 5V board inputs with no extra parts, and two M2 screws fix it to a bracket or a printed mount. Each solder tab has a hole, so you hook a stripped wire through before soldering it. The same size switch also comes as the KW11-3Z with a roller lever, the KW11-3Z with no lever and a 2-pin normally open lever switch.

Specifications

ContactsMomentary SPDT: 1 = COM, 3 = NO, 2 = NC
Rating, front face5A 125/250VAC, T105 (cURus mark)
Rating, back face3(1)A 250VAC, T85
ActuatorStraight steel lever, 16.5mm
Terminals3 solder tabs with wire holes, 8.9mm (1 to 3) and 7.3mm (3 to 2) apart
Mounting2 x 2.45mm holes, about 9.5mm apart, suit M2 screws
Electrical life100,000 operations at 5A
Body size20 x 10.6 x 6.4mm
In the box1 switch, no screws or wires

Datasheets

Wiring & getting started

Wiring diagramArduino Nano
SC7301 wired to an Arduino Nano: pin 1, COM, to GND and pin 3, the middle tab, NO, to D2. Pin 2, NC, is not used.
Tap the drawing to open it full size.
  1. Find the pins

    Hold the switch with the numbered face towards you, the lever pivot on the left and the tabs pointing down. The tabs read 1, 3, 2 from left to right: pin 1 (COM) at the pivot end, pin 3 (NO) in the middle and pin 2 (NC) at the far end. The back face has no numbers, so check you have the numbered face. At rest COM is joined to NC, and pressing the lever swaps it to NO.

  2. Solder two wires

    Hook a stripped wire end through the hole in tab 1 and tab 3, then solder each one. Thin 26 AWG hook-up wire suits a run to a board. Leave tab 2 bare for this test.

  3. Connect it to your board

    Wire pin 1 (COM) to GND and pin 3 (NO) to D2, as in the drawing. No resistor is needed, because the example code switches on one built into the Nano. On an ESP32 or Pico, use GND and any free input pin and change the pin number in the code.

  4. Load the test code

    Upload this sketch, then open the Serial Monitor at 9600 baud.

    Example Arduino codeArduino C++
    // SC7301 limit switch test for an Arduino Nano or Uno.
    // Wire pin 1 (COM) to GND and pin 3 (NO, the middle tab) to D2.
    const int SWITCH_PIN = 2;
    int lastState = HIGH;
    
    void setup() {
      pinMode(SWITCH_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP);  // turns on the Nano's built-in resistor
      Serial.begin(9600);
      Serial.println("Press the lever");
    }
    
    void loop() {
      int state = digitalRead(SWITCH_PIN);
      if (state != lastState) {
        Serial.println(state == LOW ? "Pressed" : "Released");
        lastState = state;
        delay(20);  // skip the few milliseconds of contact bounce
      }
    }
  5. Check it works

    Press the lever by hand. You hear a click and the Serial Monitor shows Pressed, then Released when you let go. If it shows Pressed while the lever is at rest, the wire is on pin 2 (NC): move it to pin 3.

  6. Mount it at the end of travel

    Fix it with two M2 screws so the moving part presses the lever near its tip just before the end of travel, with a little travel left after the click. Put a solid stop behind it so the switch only senses the position and never takes the knock.

Note: For mains wiring, fit the switch inside an enclosure and have a licensed electrician do the work.

Frequently Asked Questions

Answers to the questions buyers ask most.

Lever, roller or no lever: which one do I need?
Take this lever version when a carriage, cam or door sweeps past or presses down on an arm. Choose the KW11-3Z roller lever when the moving part slides along the actuator, because the wheel rolls instead of scraping. Choose the KW11-3Z with no lever when the part presses straight onto the plunger in a tight space.
How do I connect it to my 3D printer board's endstop plug?
Most printer boards have a 3-pin endstop plug marked S (or SIG), GND and V+. Use only S and GND: pin 1 (COM) to GND and pin 2 (NC) to S. A broken or unplugged wire then reads as triggered, so the axis stops instead of running into the frame. Leave V+ unconnected, because the switch needs no power, and a switch wired across V+ and GND shorts the board's supply when it closes.
Why does my endstop show triggered all the time?
Usually the signal wire is on NC while the firmware expects NO, or the other way round. Move the wire to the other outer tab, or invert that endstop in your firmware settings. If it still shows triggered, look for a broken or unplugged wire, which reads as triggered when the switch is wired to NC.
What does 3(1)A on the back mean?
It is the rating for 250VAC equipment: 3A for a resistive load such as a heater or lamp, and 1A for a motor. T85 means it is rated for up to 85°C around the switch. The front face carries the 5A 125/250VAC rating with T105, so use whichever marking your equipment is built to.
Will it fit the bracket from my old endstop switch?
Yes, if the old switch is the common 20mm long subminiature size with two small holes about 9.5mm apart. Measure the hole centres on the old switch or bracket: if they match, two M2 screws drop straight in. Many printers fit this size, while larger switches about 28mm long use a wider hole pattern.

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