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A compact 12 mm panel mount push button for control panels, prototypes and low-voltage electronics. Choose momentary action, which closes only while pressed, or latching action, which stays closed until the next press. Six cap colours make it easy to identify different functions.
DS228 push button in your selected action and colour
Supplied with the matching panel mounting nut.
Great for
Microcontroller inputs
Add a clear push control to Arduino, ESP32 and Raspberry Pi projects.
Prototype control panels
Mount the switch neatly through a 13 mm round panel hole.
Enable and mode controls
Choose latching action when the switch should hold its state.
Reset and trigger controls
Choose momentary action for a contact that closes only while pressed.
Test fixtures
Use the solder-tab terminals for simple point-to-point wiring.
Colour-coded functions
Pick from six cap colours to separate controls at a glance.
Wiring & getting started
Prepare the panel
Make a 13 mm round hole and remove any sharp burrs.
Fit the switch
Remove the nut, insert the switch from the front, then refit and tighten the nut from behind.
Connect the terminals
Connect one solder tab to the signal and the other to ground. The switch contact has no polarity.
Set up a controller input
Enable the controller's internal pull-up resistor. The input will read HIGH when open and LOW when the switch is closed.
Debounce the input
Add about 20 to 50 ms of software debounce when one press must register as one event.
Note: The current ratings are supplier declared. Mains wiring must be completed by a licensed electrician using a suitable enclosure. Use a correctly rated relay or contactor for inductive or high-inrush loads.
If the switch should stay on after you let go, you want latching. That is your power switch, your mode toggle, anything that holds a state. If it should only be live while your finger is on it, you want momentary. That is start, stop, reset, trigger. The two look identical from the front, so it is worth deciding before you order.
What size hole do I drill?
13mm. The barrel is a 1/2 inch 28NEF thread, which is 12.7mm across, so a 13mm bit or step drill gives it just enough clearance. A 12mm hole will not take it. The 15mm cap covers the hole once the switch is fitted, so a slightly rough edge will not show.
Does it come with a mounting nut?
Yes, one nut per switch, already threaded onto the barrel. Take it off, push the switch through the panel from the front, then run the nut back on from behind and snug it up by hand. No washer is supplied and none is needed on a normal panel.
How do I wire it to an Arduino or ESP32?
One terminal to your input pin, the other to ground, and set the pin with pinMode(pin, INPUT_PULLUP). The pin reads HIGH when the button is out and LOW when it is pressed. You do not need an external pull-up resistor. Polarity does not matter, the two terminals are interchangeable.
Can I push spade connectors onto the terminals?
No. These are small solder tabs, not quick-connect blades. Each tab is 2mm wide and 6mm long, against the 2.8mm a small spade needs, and the two sit only 6mm apart, so a crimp receptacle will not grip and the pair would foul each other anyway. Solder your wire straight to the tab, or feed it through the 1mm hole in the tab first and then solder, which gives it something to hold onto. That hole takes roughly 18 AWG. If you want the switch to unplug, solder a short tail on and put the connector at the far end.
My momentary button registers several presses from one push. Why?
That is contact bounce, and every mechanical switch does it. The contacts chatter for a few milliseconds as they close. Fix it in software by ignoring further changes for about 50ms after the first one, or use a debounce library. It is not a fault with the switch.
Can I switch mains through it?
The contact is rated to 3A at 125VAC and 1.5A at 250VAC, so electrically it is rated for it. But mains wiring in New Zealand is prescribed electrical work and legally has to be done by a registered electrician. For anything you are wiring yourself, keep it to low voltage DC.
Can it switch a motor or a relay coil?
Yes, within the current rating, but inductive loads are harder on contacts than the rating suggests because of the arc when they open. Derate to roughly half for a motor, and fit a flyback diode across a relay coil or a snubber across a motor. For anything above an amp or two, use the switch to drive a relay or MOSFET rather than carrying the load itself.
Is it normally open or normally closed?
Normally open. The circuit is broken at rest and closes when the button is pressed, or when it is latched in. There is no normally closed contact on this switch, so if your design needs a closed-at-rest circuit you will need to invert it in software or pick a different switch.
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Why Buy from NZN
Useful parts, fair prices and someone local to help.
I'm Lukas, an engineering student and maker based in Te Awamutu. NZN grew out of a CNC build that dragged on for months because every missing cable, bolt or electronic part meant another overseas order. I started the shop so Kiwi makers can spend more time building and less time waiting for the next parcel.
Orders are picked and packed in Te Awamutu and dispatched within 24 hours every day, excluding public holidays. NZ Post target delivery is 1-2 days urban and 2-4 days rural.
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